January 31, 2010: Off to Lisbon for a few days before joining friends on a NCL cruise out of Barcelona for 9 days followed by a few days enjoying Barcelona. Spring-like weather in Lisbon was fabulous after the snows of CT........
The number one attraction in Belem is the Jeronimos Monastery http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jer%C3%B3nimos_Monastery, one of the largest in Europe. The cathedral is the resting place of none other than Vasco de Gama himself; he is surrounded by the gracefully carved pillars that are unique unlike those of the Gothic tradition, quite heavy and large.
Monstrance (means used in religious ceremony) Japanese screen Bosch Altarpiece
My first visit to Rabat since we lived in nearby Kenitra 47 years ago. It all seemed very familiar and really not too many changes. The beautiful mausoleum and the huge Mosque in Casablanca are lovely additions. The souk with an array of spices and dates has probably been the same for hundreds of years.......
Arrived very early a.m. in Lisbon and waited at airport until tourism office there opened at 7 a.m. to buy Lisbon cards which would allow us unlimited access to buses, trams, subway and some trains as well as free entry to some museums and reduced fees for others. Using our new card, we took the aerobus into the main square, Rossio, about 10min. away. 
Had a leisurely coffee while waiting for our apt.manager's office to open at which point we taxied there, left our luggage and took the #28 tram, vintage 1920, all around the old city.
Had a leisurely coffee while waiting for our apt.manager's office to open at which point we taxied there, left our luggage and took the #28 tram, vintage 1920, all around the old city. 
Weather was springlike and clear, so we had great views over the river Tagus. As Lisbon revealed herself in somewhat tattered glory, we saw Cathedrals, forts, vistas, shops, and winding cobblestone streets, . Many buildings were faced with tiles, some more intact than others. Much gentrification underway and much needed. Almost every building has balconies at all windows; some have flower filled window boxes, others blooming with flapping laundry lines. Lisbon is a very hilly town and we were impressed by the elderly folk who were not daunted by the effort to climb up and down as we certainly were.
By 10 a.m. we were ensconced in our 2 bedroom 2 bath very modern and comfortable apt. right in the center of the action on Garrett St. one block from Rossio Sq (VRBO.com #136986). We were on the 4th floor with fabulous views of castle, fort, cathedral and river in the same block as the Cafe Brasilia and a large shopping mall; double paned full length windows admitted not a sound from the street, but lots of light and that view!
The next morning we were ready for the 30 minute tram ride to Belem, an ancient town just north on the coast where we enjoyed a coach museum, the idea of a queen who, anticipating the coming automobile turned the riding school of her palace into a very fine collection of coaches dating from the 1600s. Some were enormous, others suitable for only one person. All featured leather and lots of gold.
The next morning we were ready for the 30 minute tram ride to Belem, an ancient town just north on the coast where we enjoyed a coach museum, the idea of a queen who, anticipating the coming automobile turned the riding school of her palace into a very fine collection of coaches dating from the 1600s. Some were enormous, others suitable for only one person. All featured leather and lots of gold.
The number one attraction in Belem is the Jeronimos Monastery http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jer%C3%B3nimos_Monastery, one of the largest in Europe. The cathedral is the resting place of none other than Vasco de Gama himself; he is surrounded by the gracefully carved pillars that are unique unlike those of the Gothic tradition, quite heavy and large.
The cloister is indeed the largest in Europe and continues the graceful theme of delicately carved trim.
Part of the monastery is devoted to the marine museum which houses remnants of the Portuguese sailing ships which once ruled the seas. The writing desk of de Gama as well as parts of the interior of ships, their nautical gear, sextants, etc. make a colorful exhibit. There are also some small vessels used by royalty as recently as a visit by Queen Elizabeth in the 60's.
Next we took the suggestion of most guide books to have a Belem Pastry, a custard tart, following the line snaking out of the noted pastry shoppe; 200,000 reported sold every week. We ate our share.......
The next day we took a one hour train from the Rossio station to the mountain town of Sintra , the summer playground of Portuguese royalty.
Soon we were high in the mountains rolling through rocky wooded vistas with little creeks and cool evergreens. The unique Pena Palace appeared with its ochre turrets and painted crenelations http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pena_National_Palace. A local bus and then a little palace bus took us to the main entrance where we spent the next half-hour exploring what began as a monastery and evolved into a summer home. Afterward we wandered through the little village of Sintra making our way back to the train and Lisbon to visit the fabulous Gulbenkian Art Museum, the gift to Lisbon of a wealthy Albanian collector http://www.museu.gulbenkian.pt/main.asp?lang=en. We were delighted by the Lalique collection of jewelry and glass and also by the Egyptian and Iranian glassware. We were extremely thankful for the excellent lighting and signage often lacking in many museums. The efficient and easy subway took us home to within a block of our apartment.
Lalique and...........................................Book of Hours
Part of the monastery is devoted to the marine museum which houses remnants of the Portuguese sailing ships which once ruled the seas. The writing desk of de Gama as well as parts of the interior of ships, their nautical gear, sextants, etc. make a colorful exhibit. There are also some small vessels used by royalty as recently as a visit by Queen Elizabeth in the 60's.
Next we took the suggestion of most guide books to have a Belem Pastry, a custard tart, following the line snaking out of the noted pastry shoppe; 200,000 reported sold every week. We ate our share.......
The next day we took a one hour train from the Rossio station to the mountain town of Sintra , the summer playground of Portuguese royalty.
Soon we were high in the mountains rolling through rocky wooded vistas with little creeks and cool evergreens. The unique Pena Palace appeared with its ochre turrets and painted crenelations http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pena_National_Palace. A local bus and then a little palace bus took us to the main entrance where we spent the next half-hour exploring what began as a monastery and evolved into a summer home. Afterward we wandered through the little village of Sintra making our way back to the train and Lisbon to visit the fabulous Gulbenkian Art Museum, the gift to Lisbon of a wealthy Albanian collector http://www.museu.gulbenkian.pt/main.asp?lang=en. We were delighted by the Lalique collection of jewelry and glass and also by the Egyptian and Iranian glassware. We were extremely thankful for the excellent lighting and signage often lacking in many museums. The efficient and easy subway took us home to within a block of our apartment.
Lalique and...........................................Book of Hours
Our last day in Lisbon we visited the Museum of Ancient Art which was almost deserted and so we had a wonderful uncrowded visit with the Bosch Altarpiece and the lovely monstrance made from the first gold brought back by De Gama. http://www.mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt/
Monstrance (means used in religious ceremony) Japanese screen Bosch Altarpiece
Japanese screens illustrated the first westerners to visit the ports of Japan, Portuguese sailing ships with sailors, like acrobats in the rigging. A local bus just outside the entrance took us back to the waterfront where we walked through the pedestrian shopping areas back home to pack for our flight the next morning to Barcelona for an overnight (Market Hotel) before leaving on our cruise.
Cruising the western Med with NCL Jade
Our cruise aboard the Norwegian Jade was at the invitation of my friends, Shirley and Jacquie who were fellow river boat cruisers on the Rhine and Mosel last May. The Jade was chosen because of the itinerary which included Casablanca, Agadir, Madeira, Las Palmas, and Malaga ending in Barcelona. 2300 fellow passengers is a bit much; about 2000 too much and we found that the entertainment and activities on board were better left to others to enjoy while we were more suited to lovely dinners either in the main dining rooms or the more intimate specialty restaurants. We loved our very comfortable cabin with its roomy balcony which we took full advantage of.
Our cruise aboard the Norwegian Jade was at the invitation of my friends, Shirley and Jacquie who were fellow river boat cruisers on the Rhine and Mosel last May. The Jade was chosen because of the itinerary which included Casablanca, Agadir, Madeira, Las Palmas, and Malaga ending in Barcelona. 2300 fellow passengers is a bit much; about 2000 too much and we found that the entertainment and activities on board were better left to others to enjoy while we were more suited to lovely dinners either in the main dining rooms or the more intimate specialty restaurants. We loved our very comfortable cabin with its roomy balcony which we took full advantage of.
I even had an acupuncture treatment for my lower back, although I did ask myself as I was lying there,"What on earth am I thinking of letting a stranger put needles along my spine?" I was none the worse for the experience (tho none the better as far as I could tell).
The Jade seemed to be geared to laying claim to as much of our spare change as possible through art auctions, jewelry sales, casino lures, spa offers, tours, shuttle buses into the various port towns, and even bottled water. I managed to avoid any Picassos, emeralds, slot machines, Botox specials and bar bills. I packed several large bottles of water- either undetected because of plastic tops or not considered lucrative enough, but liquor was verboten.......no wine to be brought on board. The other ladies got around that little snaffle by filling plastic water bottles with white wine......ingenious Americans. As for the expensive port excursions....
We joined a small group in Casablanca and steered our van to Rabat where the sights were more to our liking and in Madeira had lined up a taxi at the suggestion of someone on a travel website. We took the ship excursion to Las Palmas and in Agadir to Taroudant and both were satisfactory and not expensive. Would I take a large cruise ship again? Unlikely, unless I was with my own small group; I much prefer the small ships. The Norwegian line does offer free style dining which means you can eat when and where you like. We were asked, in the large dining room, if we would like to share a table and the two times we did were pleasant and we had good company.
We joined a small group in Casablanca and steered our van to Rabat where the sights were more to our liking and in Madeira had lined up a taxi at the suggestion of someone on a travel website. We took the ship excursion to Las Palmas and in Agadir to Taroudant and both were satisfactory and not expensive. Would I take a large cruise ship again? Unlikely, unless I was with my own small group; I much prefer the small ships. The Norwegian line does offer free style dining which means you can eat when and where you like. We were asked, in the large dining room, if we would like to share a table and the two times we did were pleasant and we had good company.
RABAT AND THE MAUSOLEUM OF Mohammed V
The Mausoleum of Mohammed V contains the tombs of the Moroccan king and his two sons, late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah. It is located on the opposite side of the Hassan Tower on the Yacoub al-Mansour esplanade in Rabat, Morocco. The building is considered a masterpiece of modern Alaouite dynasty architecture, with its white silhouette, topped by a typical green tiled roof. Its construction was completed in 1971. Hassan II was buried there following his death in 1999. http://www.galenfrysinger.com/maroc_rabat_mausoleum.htm
My first visit to Rabat since we lived in nearby Kenitra 47 years ago. It all seemed very familiar and really not too many changes. The beautiful mausoleum and the huge Mosque in Casablanca are lovely additions. The souk with an array of spices and dates has probably been the same for hundreds of years.......
CITY WALL OF TAROUDANT, MOROCCO
The great Mosque of Casablanca, just recently completed.
Arrival in Las Palmas, Gran Canary Islands
MADEIRA- Our taxi driver, Daniel, is a real find http://www.danielmadeirataxis.com/ . The four of us had the grand tour of the island starting with a bracing wicker sledge ride from the top of "Monte". It is rather like a sleigh without the snow......This used to be the method of transporting produce from the top until the clever Portuguese figured out that it was more profitable to carry tourists! The guides use their shoes as brakes with soles made of rubber from tires.
Jacquie and Shirley in the first sledge....you know who in the second with Chaline.
Our last stop was Barcelona with its lovely moderniste buildings by Gaudi, Cadafalch, and Montaner. Our apartment was at 366 Valencia, not far from the Sagrada Familia. The weather was chilly with occasional showers. We had wonderful tapas at Restaurant Diagonal nearby and in the Boqueria at Kioscos,, near the Ramblas at Lobo, and near the Cathedral del Mar at Taller Tapas. We walked along the Passeig de Gracia, looking at the Casa Batlo and La Pedrera, bought crusty bread every day at Paul's, strolled in the Parc Guell, and shopped at El Corte Ingles for Spanish chocolates. I even managed to have my camera stolen by a pickpocket in the subway........thus, no pictures of mine included here.....alas.
Our bus took us to the top of the island with fabulous views of sailboats in the harbor. We visited the botanical garden with many unusual plantings. Walked through the older part of the city where Columbus' home has been restored with a lovely atrium garden. Saw a small historical museum of early settlers to the island- mummies wrapped in goatskins. The modern city is quite lovely.
MADEIRA- Our taxi driver, Daniel, is a real find http://www.danielmadeirataxis.com/ . The four of us had the grand tour of the island starting with a bracing wicker sledge ride from the top of "Monte". It is rather like a sleigh without the snow......This used to be the method of transporting produce from the top until the clever Portuguese figured out that it was more profitable to carry tourists! The guides use their shoes as brakes with soles made of rubber from tires.
Jacquie and Shirley in the first sledge....you know who in the second with Chaline.Every inch of Madeira is cultivated with bananas, sugar cane, strawberries, avocado and papaya trees. The land is terraced with no roads to or through the farmland, just paths or lavadas (walking paths for the hikers that flock here). Water cascading off the mountain everywhere (causing flooding in heavy rains). Dramatic cliffs and rocky beaches. Funchal (which means fennel) is a spotless city-no graffiti. A visiting soccer team was roundly chastised for defacing a wall. We saw the topmost peak, Pico Barcelo, Cabo Girceo and Curral das Freiras (the nuns corral) and down to Camara de Lobos, the fishing village where Winston Churchill loved to paint.
Our last stop was Barcelona with its lovely moderniste buildings by Gaudi, Cadafalch, and Montaner. Our apartment was at 366 Valencia, not far from the Sagrada Familia. The weather was chilly with occasional showers. We had wonderful tapas at Restaurant Diagonal nearby and in the Boqueria at Kioscos,, near the Ramblas at Lobo, and near the Cathedral del Mar at Taller Tapas. We walked along the Passeig de Gracia, looking at the Casa Batlo and La Pedrera, bought crusty bread every day at Paul's, strolled in the Parc Guell, and shopped at El Corte Ingles for Spanish chocolates. I even managed to have my camera stolen by a pickpocket in the subway........thus, no pictures of mine included here.....alas.
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